The Cage Bound Bird
What exactly is a cage bound parrot? What behaviors determine if the bird is cage bound or not? What social set of circumstances cause cage bound birds? There are a lot of questions without answers when it comes to cage bound parrots, here I will try to answer the ones I can.
First, let's look at the psychology of a cage bound parrot. One that is truly suffering from this condition sees the world outside of the cage as a definite danger and wants nothing to do with it. Most cage bound parrots become terrified and or aggressive if removed from the sanctuary of the cage. It is very common for a cage bound bird not to allow a human to put any part of their body into the cage, as this is the parrot's safe place and they do not want it breached for any reason. In order to understand this behavior one should remember, the cage most closely resembles a roost for a wild parrot. The roost is the one place that the parrot can relax vigilance watching for predators, the place where they rest, and sleep. Cage bound birds are often misunderstood and though to be aggressive, when in reality the case is they are actually terrified of the world outside the known confines of their cage.
When you are dealing with a parrot in this condition it is extremely important to remember that the biting, screaming, and other unwanted behaviors are generated by fear. You must, for the sake of the parrot, treat these as normal behaviors and correct them as you go, trying to correct them without correcting the underlying condition will accomplish nothing more than terrorizing the parrot. One cannot correct a cage bound parrot of a screaming problem without correcting the cage bound behavior.
Most cages bound parrots become this way from spending too long without good human interaction and too much time in their cages. Even when provided with toys and other distractions, a cage is still just a cage. Birds need the stimulation of relationships with others in order to flourish, and leaving a parrot in a cage can cause psychosis, anything from becoming cage bound to severe self-mutilation. In order to prevent your parrot from developing these behaviors it is vitally important that you provide interaction and stimulation on a daily basis. Do not mistake sitting next to the cage watching television as a form of interaction, your attention needs to be on the bird and his attention on you. Remember, parrots are naturally flock animals, and if you cannot provide a healthy flock for them (in yourself, your family and your friends) then you should not own one. This comes to the issue of Quality vs. Quantity of time spent with a bird. Make sure that the time you spend with your bird includes good quality time, even if this means less quantity of time.
How do we treat a cage bound parrot? Treating a parrot who is terrified of coming out of its cage is often hard, and breaks many of the rules we are trained to live with when raising parrots. One of the most important things we are taught when working with parrots is to be the one to allow it out of its cage, never to allow the parrot to climb out on its own. With a cage bound bird you must break this convention. When working with parrots that suffer this condition you must be willing bend the rules. Open the cage door, make the environment safe, and walk away. The very first step outside of that cage must be taken by the parrot, for the parrot's sake. Just as we are taught to confront our fears in order to overcome them, the parrot must confront the fear of being outside in order to learn to desire to be outside the cage. This process can take a long time. You may leave the door open for a month with the bird never venturing to stick so much as its beak outside the door, but in time the bird will come out, its natural instinct to forage and interact with the world will win out over the fear. We have seen this first step take several months, but it does happen if you are patient and wait long enough. However, please keep in mind that you should not leave the cage open 24/7, it should only be open when you are there to keep an eye on the situation so the bird does not get hurt when it does decide to come out of the cage.
In order to assist the bird in coming out of his or her cage I try to leave interesting items and treats on top of the cage, an area they can climb to easily. Many birds will run out, grab the item, and run back to the cage, but the whole point is that they DID come out of the cage. Once you find the bird outside of the cage a number of times (even if it climbs right back in upon seeing you) it is time to begin working more directly with the bird. Sit next to the cage, with the door open, and talk with the bird. Offer it treats from your fingers, and allow it to take them while still inside the cage. Place a ladder from the cage door to the floor (after making sure the room in entirely safe) so that the bird can explore further. The method I use with the most success is to sit progressively farther and farther from the cage while continuing talking and offering treats to the bird. Many birds will climb outside the cage to be closer (the natural flocking instinct) to me, some will climb down to the floor, some will walk across the floor closer to me. When doing this do not move your body as if to pick up the bird, allow him or her to come to you and go from you at will, you are teaching the bird that being outside the cage is pleasant and safe. If the bird shows a serious aversion to walking on the floor you can set up a play stand in the same manner with a ladder, and use it as the out of cage stretched space item.
It can also be helpful to move the cage into a location that makes it seem very safe to climb out. I try to put the cage with two walls behind it, situating it so that it sits in a corner. This again makes the cage seem more like a nest, and therefor it is very safe for the parrot. A parrot who feels safe is more likely to attempt to climb out of the cage than a parrot who is terrified. Never place a parrot cage out in the complete open. Parrots need at least one wall of the cage covered, a cage open to the room on all sides will not provide the same sense of security.
In extreme cases, I will remove the bird from its own cage (which I don't recommend, remember that cage has been a sanctuary of safety to the bird) and place it in another cage suitable for it. Some birds will climb from the new cage in search of the old one, and in the process will learn that being outside the cage is safe. Never press the bird to accept you (meaning your hands, arms or face) inside the original cage, by doing so you are asking the bird to bite you to protect itself and its home. Be sure that the cage has outside food and water access so that you can provide for the parrots daily needs without putting yourself in harms way.
Keep in mind that getting a cage bound bird to come out of the cage is a very long process. Taking in a cage bound bird is a brave act, and it involves a serious commitment on your part. You must be committed to doing things as slowly as the parrot needs you to go, and to not giving up once you reach each milestone. Sure its easy to say "Well, he comes out of the cage now, I'll leave it be" but you need to continue to work with the parrot. Once it is willing to come out of the cage then you must begin the process of teaching the bird that humans are safe. Taming the bird is a whole other article. If you have questions, comments, or need advice on working with your cage bound bird, please feel free to contact me, via e-mail or via the forums.
© Feathered Family, 2003